193 - Aganovich S/S 2013


I was absolutely enthralled for Fashion Week, but it came in the middle of my finals, and getting through over ten shows a day online with a painfully slow internet didn't seem like the most efficient use of time or patience (recall mankind's eternal pursuit for immortal efficiency), so the agenda got pushed off the table. After a while you come to realize that random clicking and blind brand surfing does get you somewhere, given the expanse of the creativity of the mind, and Aganovich's Spring Summer 2012 collection is a prime example of the intrigue that comes with it.

Nana Aganovich designs her collections around narratives and stories created by a former writer, Brooke Taylor. She started out label working with him, and up to now, they are still collaborating together. Some people have muses like Alexa Chung, or ideal people who personify an identity they want to design for, but here Aganovich has a 'muse' who creates her muse. Perhaps the shangri-la of it all is to have both - someone at the start who constantly inspires you, and someone at the end to give you direction. 


If you ever went through the early stages of fashion design immaturity, you would've drawn anything and everything - including hybrid or half dresses, where it seems to be a combination of two disparate designs. You would never be able to imagine what it looks like, but Figure 1 has now bestowed upon you the great knowledge that perhaps your drawing doesn't translate into real life as unprepossessingly as you would have thought.

"Halfs", conceivably, is a way to view the running theme throughout this collection. Half is perhaps the easiest compromise between two distinct entities, but to balance it aesthetically, a difficult maneuver. (Fleeting memories of a fall collection with two jarring design concepts, shoved together and acquitted of it's heinous crimes by naming the collection 'Schism') Half skirts in Figure 3 and half capes in Figure 4, the latter being the best choice of war garb if you feel like carrying a gun incognito. Figure 2 is my sartorial cosset - half sleeves, which I coveted multiple times, and the subliminal and sublime illusion of the body of the dress being triangle shaped - but the work is actually being done by the ingenuity of the paneled sleeves.

There are some questionable pieces, as with any asymmetrical collection in a world that seemingly enjoys symmetry in the human beauty. Nonetheless, intelligent and mind-provoking, and worth an honest ponder.

images from Vogue

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